Bay Area Excursion: Lake Sonoma
Monday, June 18th, 2007It’s June in San Francisco.
For me, “June” conjures up the true rites of summer for a native East Coaster: Long, languid evenings spent without sweaters or shawls, dancing to jazz in an evening breeze on the plaza at Lincoln Center; hours-long meals passed in sidewalk cafes, drinking wine under long, rolled-out awnings of green; clams and mussells steaming in a garlic broth, eaten on a deck overlooking the ocean, the setting sun sparkling through flutes of beer; or driving the back roads of small-town NY, sunroof open and feet propped out the window, in search of the weekend’s best Kiwanis Club chicken barbeque; and eating that bbq, sitting on a blanket by Seneca Lake from hot sun ’till balmy twilight, watching tourist schooners and private sailboats ply the quiet water, friends and relatives strolling by to say hello…
It’s the season of bright sun and long days, of sundresses and sandals, of pure escapism and good cheer.
But Summer in San Francisco? Summer in San Francisco is none of that. It’s December’s foggy freeze blanketing the city from dawn till dusk, paying no attention to the visceral needs of a Jersey girl. It’s slacks and a T for the day, jeans and a fleece at night, skin pale and hairy underneath too many layers of clothing. The occasional spate of 70+ degree weather calls for congregating in Dolores Park with wine and cheese and friends and the Sunday Times, but the fog creeps in by six and the long “summer” evenings are better spent inside.
So as to avoid the risk of becoming even more stir-crazy in a city who defies nature with its relentlessly cloying blanket of gray, I decded to head “Upstate” as we’d say in NY, to Sonoma County, for some good ol’ back-to-nature summer fun. I packed the tent, sleeping bags, Thermarests, extra blankets, swimsuit, shorts & Tevas, picked up a friend, (handed over the keys!), and headed north.
Unfortunately, one thing about living in the San Francisco Bay Area that is not that different from East Coast city living is that EVERYONE wants to get away for the weekend. Campsites at popular parks book up months in advance, especially those within an “easy” drive to the city. While all of the parks with challenging mountain hikes were already booked up, luckily Lake Sonoma, a man-made resevoir managed by the US Army Corps of Engineers, has a “first-come, first-served” campground, and our plan was to head straight there.
We arrived in time to have our pick of spots, and chose one at the top of a small incline, with views of the lake below down behind the trees and golden, grassy hills. It also featured a small slope between the tent and ridgeline that provided a modicum of privacy from the nearby sites, should we fancy a midnight blanket-sit under the stars. We set up camp, headed into town for iced coffees and essential camping provisions — sausages, sausages, more sausages, chips, fig newtons, and beer (Miller High Life!) — came back to camp, put the cooler in what shade we could find, and set off for the lake a short but steep hike away.
The sun beat down warmly, probably over 80 degrees — finally! — and the lake sparkled a deep green-gray-blue below. The flooded valley licked steep hillsides, the lake forming inlets and “fingers” of water poking into the secondary valleys between the hills. We could see the boat-in tentsites on the opposite shores, and the sounds of power boats and jet skis echoed up the hills. It was a picture-perfect postcard of lakeside summertime family fun, and we were headed right for it!
Or… so we thought. Instead of leaving camp again to drive to a trailhead, we bushwhacked a small distance from our site to an obvious trail. It seemed natural that all trails should lead down, down, down to the lake, and we headed out with easy expectations of a quick, cool trip to our dip. But after about 10 minutes we found ourselves… back out at the road! We checked the map, regrouped, back-tracked, and took the opposite fork, a trail labeled “shortcut” that for sure must’ve led downhill.
It was a beautiful walk on a narrow path cutting across the hillside through strawlike, golden grass, with the lake always beckoning to our right. However, our lack of progress down the hill became almost comical. Our xeroxed “trail map” was essentially useless. I became convinced we were going to walk around the entire lake — not the wisest choice of endevours, as the branch of the lake we were skirting was 9 miles long!
We continued to giggle (OK, maybe I giggled) and bumble along without any real noticable change in elevation until we noticed a small peninsula jutting off into the lake. We walked out on it, and finally stumbled down a steep, unmarked rocky path to the shore. We had our own private bit of shoreline, and after much hesitation on account of fear of cold water (me) and submerged objects (my friend), we summoned our courage and sank into the cool, alkaline water.
It’s been almost a year since I’ve been really swimming — New Zealand’s head-to-toe in a 10mm thick wetsuit experiences not withstanding — and I just bobbed along, relishing that feeling of almost-weightlessness, the slippery feel of the chalky water on my skin, listening to the echoes of my breath as I floated and looked up at the sky. We played around splash-style for a while (always a necessity, no?), then climbed out and sat on the crumbling shoreline to dry.
The walk home was remarkably quick compared to our casual bungling down to the lake, thanks in part to a quicker pace, part to knowing the way, and part to the strange psychology of the passage of time. We lit the coals, cooked our sausages, drank our beer, and passed a lovely, typical camping evening under the stars.
The perfect antidote to Foggy City living!





